Packing for both 4,000 metres and 45 degrees

The Simien escarpment can drop below freezing before sunrise. The Danakil floor can pass forty-five degrees by mid-morning. Most first-time guests overprepare for one extreme and underprepare for the other.

The fix is layering rather than bulk: a merino base layer, a light fleece, and one genuinely windproof shell will cover every highland morning on our routes. A warm hat earns its space in the bag more often than expected.

For the lowlands, favour loose, breathable long sleeves over bare skin, a wide-brimmed hat, and closed shoes for crossing salt crust, which is sharper underfoot than it appears. Sandals are a real mistake at Dallol.

Everywhere: modest coverage for shoulders and knees when visiting churches, slip-on footwear since you'll remove it often, and a headlamp for pre-dawn starts. Leave room in the bag — you will want to bring coffee home.